The Truth About Frozen Dinners

By Alexia Elejalde-Ruiz
RedEye

June 12 2007

For hurried, health-conscious Americans, low-calorie frozen dinners look like manna from heaven. A tray of fettuccine Alfredo with fewer than 300 calories? Ready at the push of a button?

Sign. Us. Up.

Flocks of believers clog home and office freezers with these low-effort entrees, which last year saw a 3.6 percent increase in sales to $5.9 billion, continuing their reign as the best sellers in the frozen food industry, according to Chicago-based Information Resources Inc.

But are these meals healthy? Do you even know what's in them?

"I have never even looked at the ingredients," said 33-year-old Tanja Wagner of Evanston, an occasional consumer of Lean Cuisine pizzas and pastas. "I have two kids and I look at the labels so much for them, and here I put all this crap in me."

On most frozen dinners, the list of ingredients is long. The chicken alone in any given meal can contain 20 ingredients.

Some of those are seasonings, but some are additives that help the shelf stability and taste of the food, keep the fat and calorie content down and make it possible to freeze and reheat the meal, said Chicago-area registered dietitian Alicia Moag-Stahlberg.

Those additives, though not harmful, mean people are eating less real chicken and getting fewer real nutrients, she said. "I feel that if people are only eating processed foods, their bodies are lacking in certain nutrients, so they stay hungry and tend to overeat more," Moag-Stahlberg said.

Maybe so, but Jayne Hurley, senior nutritionist with Center for Science in the Public Interest, said she doesn't think the additives are a problem. "Artificial" does not necessarily mean "worse," she said, especially with so many Americans obese and dying of heart disease.

"Butter is 100 percent natural, and is that good for you? No," she said.

Hurley's biggest concern about frozen dinners is that many tend to be high in sodium, which causes bloating and can increase the risk of hypertension, heart disease and stroke. People should consume fewer than 2,300 milligrams of sodium a day, according to government dietary guidelines. The government considers some populations—including people with high blood pressure, African-Americans and anyone who has reached middle age—to be salt-sensitive and advises them to consume no more than 1,500 milligrams.

But Americans consume, on average, 3,300 milligrams of sodium daily, according to the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention. About 75 percent of our sodium intake comes from processed foods.

"I think the challenge is to fit [frozen dinners] into the diet without blowing the sodium," Hurley said. "You're probably going to have to watch what you're eating the rest of the day."

Hurley and Moag-Stahlberg agree the best health advantage of the leaner frozen dinners is that they are portion-controlled ways to limit fat and calories.

Researchers at the University of Illinois at Urbana-Champaign credited portion control in a 2005 study that found overweight men lost more weight following a frozen-entree diet (16.3 pounds over eight weeks) compared with subjects who made their own meals following the food pyramid (11.2 pounds).

For some, though, the small portions can backfire. South Side resident Anthony Mathews said one box rarely fills him up.

"You need to eat two or three of them," Mathews, 48, said. "I know I have eaten at least three at one time."

Nutritionists recommend supplementing frozen meals with a salad, fresh fruit or skim milk--and Roz O'Hearn, spokeswoman for Nestle Prepared Foods, which makes Stouffer's and Lean Cuisine frozen dinners, agrees, explaining that frozen entrees are meant to be rounded out.

O'Hearn says the products are nutritious. Most Lean Cuisines are preservative-free, none contain trans fats, and all but one type (chicken portobello) are free of artificial flavors, she said. The various chemical ingredients are "flavor enhancers, which are different from artificial flavors," she said, or they are used to thicken or moisten the food.

The Lean Cuisine line, launched in 1991, continues to grow, O'Hearn said, and now accounts for one-third of the company's frozen dinner sales.

Michael Sansolo, senior vice president at the Food Marketing Institute, said manufacturers are adapting as "nutrition has become so much bigger of an issue for Americans."

The result has been a frozen dinner culture that is perhaps best observed at the office. The dash to the freezer. The fight for the microwave. The potent, inescapable aromas pouring from steaming plastic trays.

"It always gets me to leave for lunch because it smells so good," said 23-year-old Sean Gill, who works downtown in health-care insurance.

"It smells bad!" his co-worker Tina Necasek, 29, scoffed as they took a break from work. Neither Gill, of Lincoln Park, nor Necasek, who lives downtown, eat frozen dinners because they think they're too artificial to be healthy.

Their co-worker Alexander Rebielak, 23—who said he once tried a Lean Cuisine roast turkey meal that tasted, in his opinion, like canned tuna—remembered being particularly disturbed when another co-worker ate a Lean Cuisine containing tomato sauce and could not rub the sauce off her face.

"I was staring at this red sauce on her face all day, and I'm thinking, 'What the hell's in there?'" said Rebielak, of Lincoln Park.

It may not be fair to finger frozen dinners for their chemical composition, as many foods we eat contain the same additives, said registered dietitian Diana Sowa, assistant director of clinical nutrition at Rush University Medical Center.

"Check the label on your standard deli items," Sowa said. "Unless you buy the chicken and cook it yourself, to get a nice, tender, juicy product you have to do some processing."

While eating fresh, homemade food is preferable, frozen dinners "have their place," she said. "We're all busy, we're all in a hurry," Sowa said. "This is certainly a better alternative than grabbing a Snickers bar." var trbcat="none:none";var tcdacmd="da;dt;rcid=";


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Name that ingredient

By Alexia Elejalde-Ruiz
RedEye

June 12 2007

Frozen foods undergo a lot of stress. They must be able to withstand fluctuations in temperature—freeze/thaw, it's called—and come out of the microwave looking and tasting right.

Most of the unfamiliar ingredients listed on frozen dinner boxes are additives meant to enhance the shelf life of the meals and keep them satisfying despite those stressors, said Clair Hicks, an expert with the Chicago-based Institute of Food Technologists and professor of food science at the University of Kentucky.

Here are the functions of some common ingredients you might find in frozen dinners, according to information from Hicks and the Center for Science in the Public Interest's Guide to Food Additives (cspinet.org/reports/chemcuisine.htm).

All of them are on the Food and Drug Administration's GRAS list, meaning they're generally recognized as safe.



  1. Soy lecithin: Extracted from soybean oil, it's a natural emulsifier that helps keep fat in place, preventing it from breaking up and coalescing into pools of fat.
  2. Hydrolyzed soy protein: Helps keep the food in place. For example, it retains the moisture in food during microwaving so it doesn't dry out as fast.
  3. Soy protein isolate: Enhances the moisture and "mouthfeel" of the food so it feels right when you eat it.
  4. Disodium inosinate/guanylate: Enhances the existing flavors. Comparable to MSG (monosodium glutamate), but safe if used in correct quantities.
  5. Gums (Xanthan, Guar, etc.): Often derived from trees, bushes, seaweed or bacteria, they add viscosity and "mouthfeel." They are not absorbed by the body.
  6. Tocopherol: Works like Vitamin E. It's an antioxidant that prevents fats from going rancid.
  7. Calcium propionate: A mold inhibitor that extends shelf life.
  8. Maltodextrin: A broken-down starch that provides cohesiveness and "mouthfeel" to things including processed cheese and ice cream.
  9. Silicon dioxide: Anti-lumping, anti-caking agent. A cousin to glass, it is not digested and not harmful.
  10. Methylcellulose: A synthetic, non-digestible gum that produces very high viscosity. At high concentration, it's the basic ingredient in plaster.
  11. Carrageenan: A thickening and stabilizing agent obtained from red seaweed. Large amounts have harmed test animals' colons, but the small amounts in food are recognized as safe.
  12. mmmmm -processed foods are so tasty
 
By Alexia Elejalde-Ruiz
RedEye

June 12 2007

How healthy is that frozen dinner you wolf down at work? RedEye asked a couple of Chicago nutritionists to weigh in on a few randomly selected frozen entrees.

Healthy Choice Gourmet Supreme Pizza
Portion: 170 grams
Calories: 360
Fat: 4 grams (1.5 g saturated)
Cholesterol: 5 mg
Sodium: 460 mg

Alicia Moag-Stahlberg, registered dietitian: It's a small portion, so chances are you're going to feel hungry sooner. The list of ingredients includes stabilizers, emulsifiers, chemicals to keep the food together and vitamins they add back in to make the nutrients look better on the food label.

Diane Sowa, assistant director of clinical nutrition at Rush University Medical Center: There are lots of ingredients listed, but those ingredients are probably in most of the foods we eat. Now they're just being spelled out. Where it used to just say enriched unbleached flour, now we can see exactly what's in that flour. That's good for people with allergies.

Patty Packard, nutrition manager in the research, quality and innovation department for ConAgra, maker of Healthy Choice meals: This is a great option for consumers looking to reduce fat and reduce sodium. I can guarantee you that you can't go to Pizza Hut and buy a pizza that's this low in fat.
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South Beach Diet Teriyaki steak wraps
Portion: One wrap, 118 grams (there are two wraps in the box)
Calories: 190
Fat: 6 grams (2 g saturated)
Cholesterol: 20 mg
Sodium: 540 mg

Moag-Stahlberg: The serving size is deceiving, because most people will eat both those wraps. The cholesterol is higher, but that seems to be because you're getting more quality beef than something that's just processed, which is good. Also, there's a lot of fiber, which will likely keep you fuller longer.

Sowa: It takes discipline to only eat half the package and put the rest away. It's good that they're using whole wheat tortillas, but notice that the vegetables--broccoli, yellow peppers and carrots—are the last ingredients listed, meaning there's not a lot of them in there.

Sydney Lindner, spokeswoman for Kraft, maker of South Beach Diet meals: The wraps are an excellent source of protein and fiber. Nutrients your body needs. In addition, protein and fiber help fight hunger, something people who seek to manage their weight continually face.
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Amy's Mexican casserole
Portion: 269 grams
Calories: 470
Fat: 16 grams (5 g saturated)
Cholesterol: 20 mg
Sodium: 780 mg

Moag-Stahlberg: There [are] a lot fewer ingredients listed here, and more calories, so you're eating more of the whole food, and therefore it should be more satisfying. But it also contains a quarter of your fat intake for the day.

Sowa: A third of your day's sodium intake is in this one item. While the list of ingredients is much shorter, that's partly because it doesn't spell out exactly what's in the Monterey Jack cheese, for example.

Michelle Erbs, marketing manager for Amy's Kitchen: We don't suggest that it's better than a home-cooked meal, but we try to make it as close as possible. We don't use any ingredients that you wouldn't use at home. We also have light-sodium products for people who are watching their sodium (340 milligrams or less per serving).
 
Personally the taste isn't worht all that sodium and other stuff i can't pronounce... Cooking isn't hard and it's not that difficult to do a little prep work once a week to plan ahead for meals for the week...
 
Thanks for the info! The only frozen meals I eat are Amy's, and only the ones around 300 calories or less (they have less fat and sodium than the item mentioned above). It's all organic, no preservatives or other additives and they taste great! Best of all (for me), there are a number of dishes with no dairy products. I also like her low sodium soups. I just keep track of my overall sodium intake, and I generally don't have more than one packaged meal a day.
 
Personally the taste isn't worht all that sodium and other stuff i can't pronounce... Cooking isn't hard and it's not that difficult to do a little prep work once a week to plan ahead for meals for the week...

i think you're right. my problem is, i'm not sure how long after i cook the food that i can keep it..save it in the fridge, etc. wow! you've reminded me/inspired me to look that up. i'm gonna right now...thanks!
 
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