How Rock Climbers Train

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climbfit23

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Campus Board routine is one of the toughest (in my opinion) exercises to perform. I have been training on campus rungs for about 6 months and have developed a pretty intense routine. I mainly do these exercises to get strength in my back and arms for rock climbing. All caution, however, should be taken before performing these as they involve putting lots of stress on your fingers and wrist area.

If there are any other rock climbers in here that train for strength I'd like to know your routines! Feel free to leave them in a reply!

[video=youtube;kKtEQzo-K2c]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kKtEQzo-K2c[/video]
 
Long timesince I did any serious climbing but I was pretty good.
Supporting activities for many of us included martial arts or dance predominantly ballet, nothing better for absolute control fo everypart of your body including some you only realise you have after doing it, these improved co-ordination and flexibility. A lot of endurance work for some of the main muscle groups, most think of arms especially grip but as DX has put at the first on his list many forget that if you are climbing well your legs will be taking your weight most of the time and calves that will not go sewing machine on you are incredibly important. We used a standing calf raise set up and would stay in various positions with legs bent and straight to assist.
Bouldering is irreplacable, making repetetive mistakes with a short way to fall is a lot better than making them further up a rock face.
Uneven pull-ups, especially with switches are great, rock faces rarely ever give grips in nice straight lines so this is good real world prep.
Wax balls or other grip systems that work fingers rather than hands are important.

Biggest one that many miss is the core. Controlling this means being able to hold yourself in the most precarious position and move one limb without affecting overall balance.
Climbing is a lot cooler worldwide than when I did it and I doubt I would even qualify for a number of the competitions I was winning at my best now, sheer weight of numbers. Most of the stuff I did is likely old hat now but what worked 20 years ago will likely still help now.
 
I'd add core muscle workouts to this list. While the muscles mentioned above are great for immediate improvements to climbing, core muscles are going to help you nail those tricky dynamic movements, and will allow you to take pressure off the forearms and legs. One thing you'll notice with better core strength, for example, is that your feet will slip less while you're on the wall (and that your climbing shoes will wear out less). Of course, the best training for climbing and bouldering, is finding the , and going there as often as possible. Yoga and some dance practices are great supplementary training, but finding a bouldering wall you love and getting there as often as possible is by far the most effective way to improve fitness.
 
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